Streamline Home Improvement Blog
October 5, 2026
October 5, 2026
Almost every shower remodel conversation gets here eventually: "Can we put in one of those built-in shelves instead of the corner caddy that keeps falling down?" The answer is usually yes — but where it goes isn't really a style decision. It's decided by what's inside your walls, and in older Metro Detroit homes, that's not always what you'd hope.
A recessed shower niche isn't carved into the wall surface. It's a box built into the cavity between wall framing members. That means its width is capped by your stud spacing. Most homes are framed with studs 16 inches on center, which leaves roughly 14 to 14.5 inches of usable cavity — so a standard single niche usually lands somewhere in the 12-to-14-inch-wide range once framing and waterproofing are accounted for.
Want something wider? A framer can cut a stud and install a header and sill to span two bays, creating a wide horizontal niche. That's very doable on a non-load-bearing interior wall. On a load-bearing or exterior wall it gets more involved, and it's a conversation worth having before anyone starts demo.
Height is the opposite problem — you have plenty. Tall vertical niches that span three or four feet are popular right now, and they're often easier to build than wide ones because they stay inside a single stud bay.
Here's where our climate matters. A lot of tub alcoves in older Metro Detroit homes sit against an exterior wall. Recessing a niche into that wall means carving into the insulation cavity — and whatever insulation is left behind a 3.5-inch-deep box isn't much.
In a Michigan January, that creates a cold spot right where warm, wet shower air collects. You get condensation, chilly tile, and over years, the potential for moisture problems inside the wall. It's not an automatic no, but it does require doing it right: rigid foam insulation behind the niche box, careful air sealing, and full waterproofing over the assembly. If you have an interior wall available instead, that's almost always the better home for a niche.
Stud bays in older homes are busy places. Before committing to a location, we're looking for drain and vent stacks (often a wide cast iron pipe you absolutely cannot build around), supply lines serving a second-floor bathroom, electrical runs, and in some homes, old knob-and-tube remnants or retrofitted HVAC ducting squeezed into a wall chase.
This is why niche placement usually gets finalized after demo, not during the design meeting. We'll talk about where you want it, but we confirm it once the wall is open.
Two things separate a niche that stays clean for fifteen years from one that gets ugly in three.
First, the sill — the bottom shelf — needs to slope toward the shower, usually a slight pitch, so water runs out instead of pooling. A flat sill collects standing water and the grout line at the back turns dark fast.
Second, waterproofing has to be continuous. The niche is a hole in your shower wall. Every inside and outside corner of that box needs to be sealed into the same waterproofing membrane as the rest of the shower, with no gaps at the transitions. A beautifully tiled niche over sloppy waterproofing is a slow leak with a nice finish on it.
Keep the niche out of the direct spray path if you can — soap and shampoo bottles sitting under a constant stream get grimy. Put it on the wall opposite or adjacent to the showerhead, roughly chest height for daily-use items. If you shave in the shower, a second small niche or a recessed foot ledge lower down is worth considering while the wall is already open. Adding it later means tearing tile out.
If you're planning a shower project and want to know what your walls will actually allow, our team is happy to walk through it with you. We're typically booked out two to three months, though rescheduling occasionally opens up sooner slots — and there's currently $2,000 off bathroom remodels. Reach out anytime for a free, no-pressure consultation.
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